Kapawi Volunteers and Staff

"Collaborators": author JoAnne,Yuma AZ; English teacher Vanessa, London; lodge housekeeper Maritza; English teacher Jessica, San Francisco; Kusutkau resident Toribio; lodge chef Juan Carlos and lodge maintenance Rubin

This teacher at Tuna School in the Kapawi community is making a bean, corn, salsa snack for a school celebration. This is the kitchen in her quarters in the community.

Project Status

I have completed the draft, so now have to time to update my blog! It has been over a year since I returned from my 7 week stay with the Achuar. I have been writing every since. The project that I have been working on since 2008 is a book about the Achuar culture. During my visit, I interviewed and observed and wrote and experienced all that I could relating the the Achuar. My Achuar friends allowed me to come into their world, opening their homes and hearts to me. The intent of this book, sanctioned by the tribe, is to provide tourists visiting Kapawi with an overview of the Achuar culture. It is hoped that those visiting the Achuar will carry back with them an appreciation and better understanding of the Achuar way of life. Further, this book will serve as a resource for volunteers and Ecuadorian naturalists working with the Achuar, and may even be used in the Achuar community schools. Additionally, all of the revenue generated by this book will go directly to the Achuar. This resource will help the Achuar bring English teachers into their communities.
So, with that introduction, what does it take to write a book of this kind? First is perseverance. I spent almost 2 years trying to find someone interested in my idea to write a book about the Achuar. That someone was on staff at Kapawi headquarters in Quito. My contact was Pedro Armendáriz. I was asked to submit a proposal. After the proposal was accepted, I started doing book research and planning my on-site research.

I will start the next post there.

Coming to an end...

Here it is July. I have been writing nearly every day since I returned from Kapawi. I did have a week of travel recovery and a bit of jungle fungi to combat... And a few breaks with family along the way. But other than that, I have worked on the book like it was an 8 to five job. And it was! I completed the draft of the book yesterday!!! Every time I re-read it, I tweak it a bit. I think it is time to stop! I am sure it has some editing corrections to be made, and I have several very capable people to help with that. I have also sorted photos to include. As I look at the photos, they bring back fond memories and make be lonesome for the Achuar people. Especially the friends I made while staying at the lodge. They are very special. I do want to go back, but since this has been a volunteer effort, I have a lot of saving up to do before I can make that trip again! The book will be available from the Achuar at Kapawi. When it is ready for print, I will post how you can get a copy! All proceeds will go the the Achuar. They are struggling to keep their land and their culture. Revenue from the book will help them greatly.

more research...

I have been home for over a month now, and working even harder. Only now, instead of hiking through the rainforest and visiting communities via canoe, I spend most days at the computer writing. Sometimes I research something on the internet, such as details about a fruit or animal from the rainforest. Sometimes I have a question that Vanessa or Jessica are able to answer for me, some detail about an experience at Kapawi. It took me aver a week to feel like myself after returning home. I needed rest and my digestive track had a lot of adjusting to do. I sure was happy to have access to sandwhiches,cereal, ice cream and salad! It is so good to be home. I missed my family, friends and and dogs! Now that I am here, I miss my friends in Kapaw! The Achuar are wonderful people and what an honor to have spent 7 weeks with them. The writing is challenging, but very exciting. As I put my field notes into chapters, what I learned and experienced is all coming together. I am doing presentations on the Achuar to various organizations in Yuma. This has pushed me to organize my photos.

Home!

It had to end sometime! I traveled by canoe to the airstrip in Wachirpas for the flight over the jungle. Fortunately we were not weighed on this end of the travel. The return flight cargo to was empty fuel containers Flying in we were loaded with fuel for the generators and outboard motors, as well as food and other supplies for the lodge. I carried my fragile purchases in my backpack situated on my lap. We did not have any room to spare. There were 8 of us and the pilot. I do not know how the two in the last row managed, it was a haul to get up into the plane and avery tight fit. We consisted of a couple from Canada, a couple from France, a couple from ME and a fellow from MN. We had a good flight and were able to see communities in clearings in the jungle. After a pit stop at the Quito office, we boarded a van for a long drive into Quito. We stopped for fuel and I purchased a freshly made cheese sandwhich for 70 cents! Here we had a clear view of Cotopaxi, truly amazing. The clouds cleared away and we could see the snow covered top! Arrival at Quito was around 8 p.m. After getting checked in, I was ready for a hot bath and room service. I left for the airport the next morning. It took almost a1 1/2 hours to go through immigration and customs. There were no problems, it took that long to wait in line, collect by suitcase and take it to the other end of the airport for clearance and checking it back in. It was wonderful toland in Phoenix and have Bill waiting there with a smile and a rose in hand. The next phase of this project is to complete the manuscript. That I am working on!

Feb 18 Travel Day

Well, I am all packed except for the computer. I am already tired, and have about an 8-hour travel day today. We leave around 11 by canoe to go to the airstrip, then to Shell over the jungle then to Quito by bus.
Yesterday was a day for me to enjoy the rainforest, my last opportunity to hike and visit a community. We started by seeing neutra in the lagoon; it was chasing the large ducks. Then many birds sightings on the boat ride to the trail. The best sighting for me was the saddleback monkeys we say playing in the trees along the forest trail. It was a long and hot hike, but many good sightings. We saw tapir tracks, along a small stream, and a small waterfall. The French couple took a different trail and saw 5 capys and a fresh jaguar track. There are mammals out there, just difficult to see. We probably frighten them away as we try to walk quietly along the trail. After a hot lunch in the forest, we took the boat to Kusutkau for a visit with a family. Different communities and different families in the community take turns receiving the tourists. I had visited this community 4 previous times, so I knew the family. It was a good visit. Then back to the lodge via the Pastaza River. We spotted a snake swimming along the shore, and saw it quickly raise up the front of its body and wind around a hanging liana. It was so fast! The boat driver could see it in the tree, we could not. After turning around and spending about 15 minutes, we were able to get a glimpse. Good camouflage! We saw 3 turtles sitting on a branch in the water, but they jumped into the river before we could get a good look. My last day in the rainforest was not a disappointment! Last night I ate a traditional dinner with the guests and guides. It was such a wonderful change from the staff dining. Interesting guests, from Canada and France. After there was a going away chicha party in my honor. I was surprised and touched. Music, dancing and chicha, imported beer, too. I will miss all of the people here.
The experience ended well, with a wonderful tour day.

Last day of my research and adventures at kapawi

Feb 17

Today is my last day at Kapawi Lodge. Last night I went out on a caiman watch. The river is very high, so the sightings were not likely. I discovered that a caiman visited my new cabin, no. 7, last night. That thought makes for good sleeping. The caiman was not in the cabin, but under it in the lagoon. Actually the caiman are in the lagoon since it is very full. We had two long rains, staring around noon and lasting into the night. Yet this morning, the lagoon is down again, with the marsh and ponds where yesterday it was all water. The plants are very adaptable! So the caiman watch produced two good specimens, but we did not see any night birds. Part of the trip we just floated without the motor and enjoyed the nearly full moon, Orion, the mists and night sounds. I went to bed later than usual, 10:30. Here, once it gets dark, bedtime comes earlier than at home. So this morning I was late for breakfast. Being late mean you might not get any food… but the cooks fed me fruit and rice with meat. At 9:30 I go on a 3hour hike with some Canadians and a French couple, with Renan and Simon as our guides. We will have lunch in the forest and then visit Kusutkau. I will know a lot of people there, just visited them on Tues! I hope today to see some monkeys, I have only seen a couple, and they were far away. I am all packed so I can relax and enjoy my last day here. Tomorrow I will leave around 11, canoe to the airstrip, fly to Shell, bus to Quito… It will be a very long day! I just Skyped Bill and had an e-mail from Arick. Being in touch has been so important. Chris and I have had several long chats. I do miss everyone! Well, A good start for the day...

Last week at the Lodge

Feb 14

Last night’s cultural event was very nice. Several Achuar sang anents and then a traditional warrior greeting was preformed. Chicha was passed around. It was held in the bar, as there was a huge thunderstorm. It lasted until 10p.m. in the I almost made it without a close encounter! So far the only snakes I have seen are in photographs taken by someone else. I have photographed some very large insects and spiders, but last night, when getting ready to hop into bed, I stepped barefoot on a medium sized tarantula. I think I did more damage to it physically, but it surely captured my attention. I felt the hard exoskeleton crunch, but I did not get a bite. I was charging my camera, so had to get the battery back in to get a photo, it was still trying to crawl. So I have it documented! Then I swept it out the door. As an afterthought, I might have caught it for further examination like I did with the bats, but it was lost amongst the wet leaves…and it was dark. So I do not know if it made an escape or not. I did have passing thoughts about it coming back into the room. This morning, I am getting ready for a hike. Unfortunately, my boots were needed for someone in the big group, so all that was left was a size bigger, cut off and split down the back. Thank goodness for duct tape. The best way to hike in the rainforest is in rubber boots. I have on three pairs of socks; hope I can hike in them.
I opened the Valentine’s card Bill hid in my suitcase. I have been waiting for the day to open it! He is so thoughtful. And it even plays a tune! Well, it turns out the group was too large so I waited for the new group. The day got progressively hot. All of the rain from last night is now moisture in the air. I took a shower mid afternoon, and it was cold! Renon came in with the new group. He is wonderful. He brought a jar of peanut better and a loaf of bread. I opened it and shared with some of the kitchen staff. It was better than cookies. I put the remainder in the refrigerator in the kitchen for Jessica. Of course she is in Banos for the week, having all kinds of good food! We cannot leave any kind of food in the room, as it would attract critters. By then we had a huge thunderstorm and I did not want to do the alternate activity, a canoe ride. Somehow the lightning just did not appeal to me. We heard an extremely loud crack, which I thought was thunder. A big tree uprooted and fell onto the boardwalk, breaking it in two places. The staff was on the scene immediately with machetes and chain saws. They are already repairing the boardwalk! They are amazing. Today’s food was sautéed meat with plantain hash for breakfast, chicken bone soup and rice with some sort of rib for lunch and tasty fried fish and white rice with a few pieces of beets for dinner. Of course I had my peanut butter and bread around 4 and I had something from the chief around 10. It was egg and potatoes quiche and some cantaloupe! What a treat! For some reason white rice, when I eat it, does not stick to the ribs. I am hungry a few hours later. After 6 weeks here I have found out how to get a snack! The food here is what the Achuar prefer. They have a lot of meat and starch in their diet. I am just not used to it! For the guests, there is a chef and really delicious meals. I tried the black light tonight, did not find and scorpions, but did see some great lichen on the trees.



Feb. 15
Breakfast this morning was white rice, sautéed chicken and fried plantain. I just couldn’t do it. I had peanut butter on bread. Thanks to the care package from Remon. There is no brewed coffee for us. I will enjoy the coffee at the hotel in Quito. I plan on having a big salad, too. Andres, Pedro and I left for Kusutkau to attend Vanessa’s going away party. She has been living there for the past 6 weeks. She is a volunteer from England, teaching English in the community. She is 18 years old. Unbelievable what she is doing! The celebration included certificates for the students, young and old. Also the students sang and recited in English. What an accomplishment, with 6 weeks of instruction. There was chicha and volleyball. Vanessa gave us a tour of her house. She was living with a family, but they thought she would be happier living by herself. She was set up in a vacant house. It has a hearth, a bed platform a small table, and a chair. She learned how to make chicha and pottery. They said she was an Achuar woman! Nice compliment. We were served fish soup and boiled plantains. I amused the children by making origami birds. I had a small notebook with me and started tearing out pages. I made 42 little birds. Two young girls and one father wanted me to teach them. They learned very quickly. This is my fourth visit to Kusutkau, I know many by name and feel welcome. It took 30 minutes this morning to get there; we left at 8:30. We left at 4 and on the way back, the motor on the boat failed, so we had to wait for a tow!

Feb. 16

Last night there was a staff meeting and I was thanked for being here and working on this project. It was a very emotional moment for me. I will miss the people here! Pedro and Vanessa leave this morning. Then I will move back into a cabana and relax my last two days here. I went to the clay lick at 6:30 this morning. We took a boat and saw the pink river dolphins, as well as Amazons and Macaws. They get grit for digestion from the clay. Nice way to start the day. After I get settled again, I will write up my notes from Vanessa and see what activity is planned for this afternoon. I have to package my breakable gifts, as well. I will have to hand carry them, so need to plan my packing. Friday am I will be flying to Shell in a small plane. I will leave lots of stuff behind to make weight!

Last few days

Feb 13

Yesterday I was able to tag along to a meeting at Wayusentsa.
It took an hour and a half going fast up the Pastaza
River. The driver is very skilled. He has to know where there are obstacles in the ever -changing water. There is also a person at the front of the boat, giving signals. With the flux in the river depth and new branches swept in, it is a challenge. We saw a lot of birds; I am actually able to identify many of them!
I was not able to take photographs of them as we were going too fast.
But the reflections of the trees on the water were magnificent and photographable.
We saw several people in canoes; one boy of about 10 was out by himself. I think I was an overprotective Mom! These kids start using machetes to chop sugar cane and lianas around two! It started to rain hard before we arrived, the past several days have been rainy, I have not been able to dry out my walking shoes yet. And one shirt has mildewed while hanging to dry.
Anyway, our arrival point was a steep and slippery bank, with steps cut into it. The community members run up and down this with little difficulty. I had to have help up. (Coming back down was even worse). The meeting was in progress when we arrived at the casa comunal (community center). Several Sindicos (community mayors) greeted us. Celestine, Bill and my guide from two years ago gave me a big hug. So nice to see him. We situated ourselves on the guest benches and were served chicha. Then the meeting continued. One topic was about dealing with pressure for oil development. Unfortunately I did not have an interpreter. After the first part of the meeting, there was a break. I gave the women sewing kits and the children pencils, but the were most curious about the photograph album I brought of family, the desert and the dogs. They really get a laugh with the dog photos because their dogs are not pets; they are used for hunting and have to fend for themselves. They were curious about my family. Then we were served lunch. First banana leaves were cut and spread on the only table for us. From the various houses, they carried over huge pots of soup, boiled manioc and green bananas. The soup had a nice smoky flavor, lightly salted. It was made from the peccary the men had hunted. It was boiled with manioc, skin and all. The meat was tasty. I did not eat the skin and bristles. Once the soup cooled, it began to thicken, so it is best to e eat it while it is hot! After the meal, we headed home. It was a nice visit. I always learn something new. A shock when I arrived at my room. Both beds were gone.
The hotel has a very large group coming and they have been moving the beds to the guest rooms. Fortunately a substitute did arrive

Feb 13
Today is operations day, arrival of the big group. The entire staff and extra guides have been working to get everything ready. The activities had to be coordinated, the rooms ready… I have been shuffling between my room and the staff dining room to try to write. I can get Internet at the dining room. It seems that Pedro is my new room mate, Blanca from the Quito office was my roommate for the past two nights. There is no more space for beds! It has been phenomenal watching the staff build furniture with minimal tools. They are very skilled and multi talented. they have redone the cabins to accomodate the guests in style. This morning was white rice and fried eggs, chicken giblet soup and a meat sauté with white rice. Pedro arrived with 4 apples and a chocolate bar for me! What a treat. And the chief gave me a bit of cuisine from the guest menu, too. I am not starving, just tired of white rice! The afternoon has been sunny so I put out my shoes to dry, and found a huge walking stick, as long as my foot. So, back to the writing… no interviews today. walking about for a break, I found the same walking stick, but this time with a mate. Very interesting to see the smaller green male on the large female. Change again. Pedro was moved in with the manager. Makes life a lot easier! It is thundering and lightning all around tonight. There is an activity planed for the guests at the staff quatral, but it may get rained out. It is the Achuar warrior dance. Hope it works. I am trying to get every bit of information I can before I leave. Tuesday is a going away party for Vanessa at Kusutkau, and Thursday is cultural night for the guests. I am invited to that one. I still need to see weaving. we will see how much I can see. It is only Sunday and Friday I leave...

Feb. 10 Moving Day

Last night I began sorting my clothes and figuring out how to pack the handicrafts I had purchased. It is a good thing I did. This morning at breakfasts I was told I needed to move my stuff to Jessica's room. There is a large group coming and all of the beds are needed, but the room is needed for the 13th. So I was caught by surprise. It took about an hour to pack everything. Housekeeping and maintenance needed a fews days to get the room ready. I barely settled in before it was time to leave for a trip to a community. This trip was a hike, lunch in the forest, and then a boat ride to the community. This visit gave me a lot of new information. We were lucky in that it did not start to rain until we were in the host's house. It rained very hard the entire time of the visit. Some of the children enjoy playing in the downpour, but most people were under shelter. As soon as it stopped, the children cut some sugar cane from the garden with a machete. Back at the kitchen area, a small boy, maybe 2, used the machete to coop off pieces of sugar cane to eat. They learn young and are quite skillful!I sat on the boat with Claudia, from Bavaria. She was a wonderful traveling companion. We returned to the lodge late afternoon. Dinner last night was yuca soup, but later the chef treated us to fruit, yuca empanadas and poached pears. Makes up for all of the rice and eggs! we saw a white caiman on the hike, in a duck weed covered lagoon. All that was visable were the top of the head, snouts and eyes. Jorge, the Achuar guide, spotted a horned screamer in a tree. It is a turkey sized bird, but is not eaten by the Achuar. I ended the day by going to the story telling around the campfire.

Feb. 11
Today is operations day, guests leave and new ones arrive. I slept well last night. Jessica had warned be about the night creatures, but I was tired, only heard a bat swooping. But we do have mosquito nets. I have been able to write up some of my notes, but it seems that our mattresses are needed for the big group, so my accomodations (work area) are in flux. All of the staff, including the manager, have moved out of their rooms. Writting will be difficult, but I am still asking lots of questions. Tonight, if all goes well, I will record a song. Meanwhile, the guests are trying out the blow gun and getting their faces painted while they wait. Jessica leaves to day for R and R in Banos. She will be eating her way through vacation, trying out the local cafes! I could not go because I could not get the needed transfer on the 18th from there. So that gives me another week to work, which I will make good use of. 

Lodge Living

The staff dining room consists of two tables with picnic style benches. There is a TV and the staff like to watch action videos. The TV is in a cabinet with doors, so that during staff meetings it is closed. This is where everyone assembles for meetings, after the evening meal. Generally the meeting is about the next day’s tour schedule, staffing and food for the guests. They are very organized. and plan well. Every supply has to be brought in and carefully accounted for. The chef and a helper or two prepares the food for the guests. We have a cook. The food is placed on a pass thru or delivered to the tables. The utensils are in a tray on each table. Condiments are salt, sometimes mayo. On the rare occasions that we have bread, there is jelly in a bag. In the a.m. there is hot water for tea and instant coffee

Fruit flavored drink is available is for the other meals, at 6, 12 and 6. It is in a big covered bucket that has a spigot. You sit elbow to elbow to eat. When finished, plates are out on the pass -through. The servings are huge! The storeroom is off to the side, and careful inventory is kept, as most food has to be flown in, knowing what is on hand is very important. Fish is purchased from local fishermen and is fresh and good! Also from local is green bananas and yuca.

Kitchen is large and has gas stoves sink, and large prep areas. Screened back area. The arrangement is good, kitchen, butler’s pantry, and guest dinning area. The "L"is the staff dining and storage. Internet is available there; some staff have computers.

Housekeeping this "tour of duty" are Marta, Theresa and Catalina. They sweep and clean the rooms every day. New linens once a week. Washing is a big job! The linins are transported by boat to Kapawi community, where woman wash using big tanks of water pumped up from the river. The linens are hand scrubbed, rinsed and hung to dry. Make one really appreciate a clean towel!

I am into a routine of closing all of the curtains over the screen windows and the around my bed before gong to dinner. The critters come out by dark. I also apply insect repellant. I have not had many bites at all. Stephanie seems to be the bug magnet. By 9 the guests have had their briefing and the bar closes. Then is dark and quiet except for the insect and frog interrupted, occasionally by an owl or potoo.

One thing is certain, there is nothing like waking up a dawn with a mist over the trees. The big white crane swoops in every morning at this time, to start the day's fishing. This is the time of day that I might heat the howler monkeys. As the sun rises, other birds add to the sounds, and take turns on a popular dead branch located in the lagoon. On that branch  I have see kiskadee, hawks, scarlet crested vermilion, cardinal, heron and ani. When I take a break from writing, I take a walk to see if there is anything new in the neighborhood. The most astounding to me was the tiger heron. In the rainforest it is difficult to see birds, but along the rivers and on lagoons, it is a paradise!

Shopping

Feb 8

Today I have an interview with Antonio at 1:30 and Simon at 2. I spent the morning talking with Remegio, the bartender. Between his English and my Spanish We were ale to communicate. He gave me an Achuar name! Nunkui nuwa, mother earth. Since my vision was of the rainforest and he sees me taking photograph of birds often, he felt this was a suiting name. I have been trying to buy a Tunta for Bill. One was supposed to be waiting for me at Wachirpas, but a tourist bought it before my visit! Same for the piranha jaw necklaces I wanted for the kids. So I was at the bar asking question and he said he had a Tunta. It was even better because I could charge it and save my dwindling cash supply. He had one necklace, too. I also purchased some ceramics that were made in Kusutkau. When we go as guests, they do not offer handicrafts, only to the tourists. I have been able to get some things when tagging along with the tourists, but I had certain things in mine. So now I have made known my “shopping list”. I have been far too busy with my research to think about personal things, but now that I will only be here for another week or so, I have to try. We will see. I have packed all of the items because I have to vacate “my” room on the 13^th. There will be full house here, 50+ people. None of the staff will have their beds. We will camp somewhere! Then I get my room back until I leave. Remegio. He is from Puanchir. I have not visited his community, it is too far away. I have visited Kusutkau, Naparak, Wayusentsa, Wachirpas, and Kapawi. They are all within a few hours by boat. It started raining, one of the hard, 2 hour rains, just before it was time to walk to the schoolroom for the meeting with Simon. It probably took about 10 minutes. I heard a loud crack and found a piece of broken branch across the path. The path is raised, made of sections of poles. The water was over the top in some places. At the quartel, the ball field was also under water, and the trenches along the edges were running full, down to the river.  I could not have been much wetter if I had jumped in the river. I do not know how long it will take in this humidity to get my hiking shoes dry… But was not cold, and my clothes dried fairly fast, even while I had them on. Walking from the main lodge area to the schoolroom for the meeting with Simon. Simon talked about fishing techniques. He had been making fishing rods while he was waiting for Stephanie and me to arrive. He wanted to know why I was asking questions about the Achuar. He likes the idea and is going to give a fishing road as a gift. By the end of class it had stopped raining and the rainwater had already all soaked in or run off. We had a treat for lunch today, some zucchini. First vegetable we have seen for a long time! But dinner was scrambled egg and green banana hash, again. The evening was spent typing up the information for the two interviews. 

Ceramics 101

Feb3, 2011 ceramics

Today is the we did something I have been waiting for all week. We made a pinink, a drinking cup. We have been waiting for Marta to show us how. She was to go to a community yesterday to get the clay. She was not able to go until this morning.

She had to go into the forest to dig the clay from a moist deposit under ground,

in a swamp or  a riverbank. The woman must locate these pockets, and each knows where to find some clay. The clay is grey. She gave each of us an egg-sized piece of clay. We had a piece of board to work on. She showed us how to make a small cup using a small ball of clay and rolling it into a turnip shape. Then we patted one end with a piece of gourd shell to make it flat. Then, a deep impression was made with a finger and the cup was squeezed between thumb and finger to form a bowl shape. The pinink was made in a different fashion. First we made a base by making a disk of clay about 2 inches in diameter and 1/4 inch thick. Then one circle of “ snake” rolled clay was added around the perimeter of the disk. Then another, and another.  Each ring was placed slightly inside of the previous one. After adding 3 rows, the process of smoothing the clay began. First with the index finger and smoothing from the inside bottom up, and then repeating on the outside. The sides of the bowl were thinned by continually pinching the clay between thumb and index finger. Keeping the shape of the bowl, keeping it even, is difficult. A piece of gourd is then used to smooth the clay, inside and out. The rim was made even by putting the bowl upside down on a board, then lifting it up and smoothing the edge.  Water was used to smooth out any imperfections, and then it was time to stop. I quickly made an indented pattern along the rims to mask the cracks where the clay was too dry. We were an hour late for lunch because we started an hour late, waiting for the clay. If you are late to lunch, you may not get food. The pots have to dry for 2 days, then sanded and fired. We will see if we make it through the next step. Seems that it is difficult to find the walking palm seed we need to polish the dry clay. I have smoothed and sanded my pinink with a piece of gourd and cornhusk, but have to polish before I can paint. I am hoping to paint… a hair is used to form the thin lines of pigment. And the pigment is in another community…

Kapawi Wildlife

Wildlife at Kapawi

As we travel to different communities along the Capahuari River, we see many birds. Mammals are much more difficult to see. I saw a marmoset on a night walk and he naturalist guides are sometimes able to spot monkeys in the treetops, but they are far away. The best glimpses for me are when the monkeys are jumping to another branch. I can catch the movement. The birds we saw on the way to Kuskutsu were a Great Heron, Hoatzin and comerants. But there is another kind of wild life. The Achuar love a good party. The school at Kapawi community was celebrating 11 years of its school. The party lasted over 2 days. We went there for the school ceremony. The students preformed a traditional dance and sang. They had prepared booths displayed the various subject areas and had interactive exhibits. Then there was food! There was fish cooked the traditional way in leaves, called maike, chicken and manioc and rice. A snack made of beans, fried plantains andcorn was delicious. It is called chocho. From there we walked to the community center for talking, drinking chicha, volleyball and a triathlon. The triathlon was running to the river, swimming across, canoeing back and running back to the finish line. Then more sitting and chicha (I am getting the hang of it), and music and dancing. Then back to the lodge, where I called it good. The rest of the staff went back to Kapawi for the evening. The next day there was more celebrating at Kapawi, but we went to another community to visit Vanessa, the English teacher. They were celebrating the end of the school semester, and had a big party too. That was my second tmie for aguiti soup. That evening, the staff returned to Kapawi for more partying, until 3 am. Glad I sat that one out too. The next morning at 6 for breakfast we could still hear the music from Kapawi! I am getting quite agile climbing in and out of boats, hiking up river banks, and dancing, although I do need a help up the banks. All of that and we still get all of our work done…

Kapawi Wildlife

Wildlife at Kapawi

As we travel to different communities along the Capahuari River, we see many birds. Mammals are much more difficult to see. I saw a marmoset on a night walk and he naturalist guides are sometimes able to spot them in the treetops, but they are far away. The best glimpses for me are when the monkeys are jumping to another branch. I can catch the movement. The birds we saw on the way to Kuskutsu were a Great Heron, Hoatzin and. But there is another kind of wild life. The Achuar love a good party. The school at Kapawi community was celebrating 11 years of its school. The part lasted over 2 days. We went there for the school ceremony. The students preformed a traditional dance and sang. They had prepared booths displayed the various subject areas and had interactive exhibits. Then there was food! There was fish cooked the traditional way in leaves, chicken and manioc and rice. A snack made of beans and corn was delicious. From there we walked to the community center for talking, drinking, volleyball and a triathlon. Then more sitting and drinking, and music and dancing. Then back to the lodge, where I called it good. The rest of the staff went back to Kapawi for the evening. The next day there was more celebrating at Kapawi, but we went to another community to visit Vanessa, the English teacher. That evening, the staff returned to Kapawi for more partying, until 3 am. Glad I sat that one out too. The next morning at 6 for breakfast we could still hear the music from Kapawi! I am getting quite agile climbing in and out of boats, hiking up river banks, and dancing, although I do need a help up the banks. All of that and we still get all of our work done…

Waterfalls at Wayusentsa

The trip to Wayusentsa took about two hours by boat up the Capahuari River. On the trip we enjoyed the coolness of the air over the river. We were able to identify some birds flying overhead, such as Toucan, and had a nice sighting of a heron and a cattle crane perched on branches that were partially submerged in the river. Also we saw many Hoazin families that nest in the overhanging bushes. It was a pleasant, sunny day. We pulled in along side a canoe to anchor and disembark. The shore was narrow but not too muddy. We were wearing our “wellys”, so no problem. When hiking in the rainforest, sock and rubber boots are the preferred gear. There were toe holes and big steps cut into the bank. I had to have a hand up, it was quite steep. Once on top of the bank, we followed a trail through the underbrush, then through some cleared areas with chakras (gardens). We passed our first house, then on through the yard to the Shaman’s house. The Shaman was the designated community host for our visit. We were expected, if not, we would have called from the trail to let the community know that we were there and wait for an invitation to enter into the community. The Shaman invited us to enter and sit on the guest benches in the men’s part of the house. Each of the two wives began serving chicha, first to the Shaman as head of the house, then, one bowl at a time, to the rest of us. The Shaman gave the traditional greeting and welcome and asked us the purpose of our visit. Question and information was exchanged. Each of us was asked to give our name and background. I talked about the project I am working on and gave the Shaman a postcard and pin from Yuma. I also had pencils for his children, who were quite curious about us. We were a group made up of German visitors, Pedro, Vanessa, Ranon, Jorge, and myself. Ranon was our naturalist guide, Jorge our Achuar guide. After this visit, we were ready to start our trek to the waterfall. It was a hot humid day, and we were fasting in preparation for the evening natem ceremony. We boarded our boat to go further upriver to the trailhead. Here we hiked into the forest up hill part of the way. We stepped over fallen logs, were snagged by vines and crossed some muddy areas. One challenge was crossing over a small ravine. The “bridge’ consisted of two poles going from bank to bank. For a handhold, there was another log stuck upright into the streambed. This was held as you crossed, it could be pivoted as you made your was across. At leas the poses were not slippery.  I think we hiked about two hours; I do not wear a watch here. A deer was spotted, but was too quick for me to see. We saw a scarlet-headed woodpecker and butterflies. Then we arrived at the falls. We crossed over the rocky top of the falls. The stream is low since this is the dry season. After crossing the top, we could walk down to the riverbed to the falls. I did not feel like climbing down, I was exhausted! What kept me going were some ginger candies that Patrick had given me in Yuma. Some of the group did stand under the waterfall. It was a beautiful place to rest. Then for the trek back to the Capahuaori River. It seems a lot farther. Actually it was because we lost the trail. The guides used machetes to cut some new train and we backtracked. I managed to fall once, but no real damage. I was extremely happy to see the river! Then it was back for an afternoon of rest at the community.

Typical Week at Kapawi

At the lodge

Around 5 a.m. the sun starts to lighten the sky. With the full moon we have had the past several days, it is never really dark. This is also when some birds start their calls. I get up at 6, dress, (which includes sunscreen and insect repellant), and go to breakfast. I eat with the staff. Breakfast usually includes white rice. Sometimes it is egg, or fish soup. Any meetings are set up at this time. Then I go back to my room, take care of any laundry, and start writing. I research and write all morning. I stop around 8:30 to Skype Bill. Then back to writing. I try to take a break and walk around the complex.  The walkways are all raised boardwalks. The cabins, dining rooms, bar, housekeeping, office, etc. are all interconnected. The walkway goes all the way to the boat dock. There is a trail that goes to the staff quarters and communal area. When I take my walk, I am surrounded by rainforest. During my walk, I usually see a lot of butterflies. There is one tree I like to visit because it usually has several butterflies feeding on the sap. That is a good photo spot.  My cabin sits over the edge of and overlooks a lagoon.   This is my bird watching spot. Which birds I see depend on the time of day.  In the a.m. a large black duck with white wing band flys in to feed. I also see it again, sometimes with a mate, in the late p.m. throughout most of the day; there is a large white heron (which was here for the past 2 weeks, but is absent now). I also see lesser anis and a yellow-breasted bird, Kiskadee. I can hear many birds throughout the day, but I cannot identify what they are. The cabin in on stilts, with water underneath. It is built with a layer of screen between two layers of the outer sections of palm tree trunks. This is an extra touch to keep out insects. It does a great job. I do not have many, but still use the mosquito curtain at night. I have seen a lizard, which I would guess is helping keep down the population of insects. Occasionally a butterfly or katydid appears on the screens. The cabin is built in the Achuar tradition, without nails. They use pegs and notches on the ends of the support posts to hold things together. There is a very high roof made of thatched palm.   I think the height lets the warm air go up and helps with the temperature. Two sides of the cabin are screened, and this helps with the air circulation, but in the afternoons the air is still and humid. It has not rained for several days. The last rain was a huge downpour, lasting all afternoon. It really cooled it down. Lunch is at 12, nap is in the afternoon, with more writing, and dinner is at 6. In between, I make drips to the dinning room to get boiled drinking water. It is nice not to cook and do dishes! The kitchen and staff dining area are very efficient. The cooks work hard and the food is good. Lots of manioc, green bananas,  fish and rice. Chicken too. But I miss having vegetables and fruit. The dining area has two tables and picnic style benches. When you enter, you go to the doorway/pass through and get your food. You return your dishes there as well. The utensils are on the table in a tray, you help yourself to what you need. Beverages are usually a type of juice, served in a large bucket with a spigot Again, it is self-serve. Here is where meetings are held after eating. The next days schedule for the guests is reviewed.  What activity, where and who is needed. After dinner I try to Skype and read my - mails. I go to the bar, as that is where I get a signal. Then I go back to my room. If there are guests, I can sometimes go with them on a night boat trip looking for caiman, or in the day, a hike. Sometimes the staff has a party in the communal area, and sometimes there are parties at the nearby communities that we can attend. They are just a boat ride away. The staff is friendly and very hard working.  At night, when I am charging up batteries and backing up data, I hear different sounds in the lagoon, mostly frogs. But occasionally I can hear the howler monkeys, way off in the distance. There are also night birds, such as to patoo, that call out their songs.  This is a great place to do my research!

Rainforest

Today seems like a good day to talk about the sights and sounds here. Time is different here... The morning starts with birds calling at twilight. This morning I woke to light from the shining moon. It was 5 am. The kitchen staff was already at work, adding their sounds to the early morning. As the day unfolds, different animals add their chorus. If you listen carefully, you can hear the distant, low chuff of the howler monkey. I walked down to the pier area to see if any birds visible. It is a favorite place of several. I did see yellow water lilies. I had not seen them open before. As the sun comes up, animals of all kinds are looking for their breakfast, including me. Today's fare was eggs scrambled with peppers, yuca and green bananas. The servings are always too big... the staff works very hard and needs it. I don't! Today's sounds are also those of work. But, depending on where you walk, you find yourself in different "micro zones". By watching carefully for movement, a butterfly can be spotted. The camouflage is amazing. You see a flash of red, blue, orange, or red, but as soon as it lands, it seems to disappear. Not only does it look like a leaf, but its posture is also used to deceive. Head down seems to be a favorite. It looks like is growing on the spot it landed. I discovered a moth on the screen in the lounge that looked like dried leaves, in shape and in pattern... but what really amazed me was the abdomen. It looked like a fat twig and was held perpendicular to the wings! I had plenty of time for a photo shot, alas, it was still there, hours later, having expended it's life laying eggs. Life and death that is the rainforest... Organic matter is decomposed and reabsorbed very quickly here. Walking around the lodge, I discovered an extremely large colony of leaf cutter ants. As I continued to walk along the boardwalk, the line of marching ants seemed to go on as far as I could follow. There is a colony near the office, and as I followed the trail, I found additional ones. The workers are in a flow up and down a tree and packing leaves back to the burrow. There they grow fungi on the leaves to feed on.  I look forward to the afternoon rain, it cools the air. If we do not get rain, the heat and humidity are stifling. I had a “care package” from Quito with gator aide. I was getting dehydrated. Today I relocated to another cabin. It is extremely comfortable. Some remodeling is happening this week, and my previous cabin is getting some attention. No rain so far, it has been sunny, but the clouds are building. After a vegetarian lunch of delicious soup and a dish of rice, shredded carrot salad and an interesting grain/cheese dish, I took a quick nap in the hammock in the  in the screened porch. Now it is time to get back to work! There is a lot to write about...

Exciting day!

Today started out at 6:30 with bird watching by traveling via boat along the river. The best part was getting a really good look at two pink river dolphins. Works cannot describe how they appeared in the early light as the barely broke the surface of the water. We saw many birds, Too. Even a monkey, which are very difficult to spot in the foliage high in the trees. The jungle is... well, a jungle. After breakfast, Jessica (English Teacher) and I took the short self guided tour. She spotted a poison dart frog, it had a red head. Unfortunately, I cannot post photos as it takes too long to up load from here. Imagine even having internet in the Amazon forest! After lunch, and a nap, we went visiting. We stopped in one community for a brief stop, then on up river to the community where the volunteers are leaving tomorrow. There was a nice celebration for them, and were honored in going. I did manage to slide on my bottom on the slippery bank, so tonight is was night.  After a tasty supper, of traditional style food, there is a staff party for the cook that is leaving tomorrow. I will sleep well tonight!